Konichiwa from Japan! (circa December '06)   The first 4 days have been absolutely amazing... so good that a nap + email were required to recharge my battery for the second part of the trip.  A couple quick mentions to address any misconceptions:   - sushi is not the only cuisine in Japan (but why eat anything else in Japan) - suntory isn't just a brand of whiskey (i've been pounding their mineral water for the last 3 days)   So my trip to Japan was a bit spontaneous... one of the reasons i decided to go is that as a new uncle, i wanted to have my nephew think that i was adventurous... which would be a tough sell since i've lived within 45 minutes of my birthplace me entire life!  The other primary reason i decided to go is my good friend Daisuke was going to be in Tokyo leading a study trip of 30 other classmates starting tomorrow (or in two days given the 17 hour time difference.. or today given that most of you probably won't even check your email until Monday morning at work).    So when was the last time you watched 4.5 movies in a day?  Well... i didn't quite make it, but the 11 hour nonstop flight from SFO affords you the opportunity.  (Note: i flew on United versus other classmates have reported Continental loops the same 4 hours of programming.  Incredible!)  The trek from the airport to the hotel in Tokyo was a bit onerous, but i was fortunate to end up on the same flight as 5 other classmates and equipped with some expert directions we ended up at our hotel--the President Hotel... or as we nicknamed, El Presidente.  Even though Tokyo stretches 239 square miles (Manhattan is roughly 24 square miles), space is at a HUGE premium.  In fact, the only time i've been able to walk down a sidewalk with my arms streched out is walking home at 5am (although there are still people out including construction workers who are only allowed to work during the off hours).  Our cab rolled into the base of the hotel, and there were two turning discs (picture a steel lazy susan a bit bigger than a car) to enable the vehicles to turn around without making a 37 point turn.   Daisuke and his girlfriend Hitome took us out to dinner the first night to an intimate spot tucked away Meiji-jingu-mae.  The food was so good that i was emboldened to try intestine.  The few words i picked up the first night include:   Bii-ru = Beer Na-ma = Draft Beer Ha-shi = Chopsticks   The Japanese are extremely resourceful... in fact, after the beanie babie craze wore off, they were quick to repurpose the excess inventory into hotel pillows (they also provide a second regular pillow for those less intrepid).  On Friday, I banded with 4 female classmates to hit up Harajuku.  The main street is casually referred to in the tour books as the "Champs-Elysees" of Tokyo... and strangely the store fronts are almost exclusively in English.  Seems like the Japanese are more brand conscious than Americans.  We wandered down an offshoot alley in search of lunch and we discovered the most amazing dumpling spot.  There were a few things that caught our eye:  fairly packed with people and no English signage.  There are seven items on the menu and each ranged from scrumptuous to exceptional.  The favorite of the table was cucumbers in a peanut sauce... and the 4 types of dumplings were absolutely awesome.  The best part... 5 of us steadily ate for 45 minutes until we were uncomfortably full and the bill came to 3,800 yen (roughly $7 per person).  And tipping is not appropriate so the only way to share our stokedness was the chorus for the trip... "Arigato!  Arigato!  Arigato!!!!"  (thank you!)   The typical routine here is eat then walk then repeat.  So that afternoon, I ventured into the Meiji jingu shrine.  This was the location for the Olympic village in 1964.   The crsip air + fall-like trees + winding rivers + general quiet made for a very calm afternoon marked by some mellow chit-chat and reflection.  That night, we met up in a larger group of 12 to hit up Magic Spice.  Per usual, the food was awesome--this time the meal was a broth with chicken plus a range of toppings (i went for cheese since there doesn't seem to be many opportunities to get it here).  We had a great time mixing beer with an arcade (golden tee seems like duck hunt compared to some of the arcade machines here).  The night unfolded into a random trip into Roppongi Hills (section of town dominated by ex-pats working at investment boutiques making ridiculous money but having no time to spend it... read "Ugly Americans" for more details).  The club scene seems to be fairly similar to the States... just a hunch since my typical uniform in the States include flip flops which fortuitously prevents me from getting in. :)   The best way to put a cap on a late night is the Japanese version of a greasy spoon... which is a noodle bar.  Get the udon--the thick noodle that soaks up the alcohol!   I spent the day on Saturday seeking out an elusive remote control airplane that costs around $20.... unfortunately, it turns out that the place is actually more like a glider (meaning you can't make it gain/lose altitude... but you can make it turn).  I also went up to Asakusa which has the Senso-ji complex/shrine.  The shrine was acutally destroyed in the WWII bombings, but it was one of the first things rebuilt (some of the parts did survive the bombings also).  nothing in tokyo is inexpensive, but if you get a few blocks off the beaten path, there are some pretty cool stores with some better pricing.  I ramped up for a long walk to try and get the blood flow up.   The highlight of the trip thusfar was going to an exclusive sushi bar for dinner that night.  This place might be more difficult to get into than French Laundry because there are only 9 spots in the restaurant.  The sole-proprietor runs the place with his wife... his day starts at 3am as he goes to the morning fish market to pick out the menu for that night.  (The fish market is supposedly a site to behold and I'll check it out later this week.)  We were treated to ahi tuna, squid, octopus, a fish with the skin still on, and a selection of 10+ other delicacies... although i am a finnicky eater (heck, my dad used to clean his plate by dumping veal in the hollow leg of the kitchen table), I might have turned into a sushi aficionado.  To give you more of a sense at how exclusive this spot is, the other patrons prsented the chef with a present at the end of the meal.  Our lay understanding was it was a gift to reciprocate for the previous year's worth of fine dining.  There is also lots of bowing... and i understood the chorus of "Arigato's."   Today has been more of a recharge... spent the day cruising around parts of Harajuku.  I convinced a few other classmates to join me at the dumpling spot for my second time in 3 days.  I would be worried that I might be getting fat after a week here... but i don't think i've seen a single obese person in Japan... well stay tuned.  My science experiment will continue to flush out whether it is the genes or the food that keeps most Japanese people in shape.   Well... I'm back in the US of A.  i was debating writing in the present or past tense since it would read like a story where the ending is unknown... probably the first time i've thought about verb tense since high school English class (i even remembered to capitalize the 'e' in English to get into the spirit)...  so, yes, the protagonist of the story did make it!  Which is good for you guys since now you get the second half of the adventure... i probably could've done a better job on the ending of the last email... i know we all love a good cliffhanger... but I had to send on a moment's notice Sunday night (the original list of recipients was done in a blink of an eye and i apologize for missing a few of you in the first email).  i was in a rush since my roommate Daisuke got back to the room and scolded, "you flew all way out to Japan to write electronic mail?  Crazy American!  Now we go for KAMPAI!!!"  Ok, i've been a bit liberal with the exact quote (he actually speaks English better than most Americans) but i'm digging the liberties of being a writer.    On Monday, I decided to do a day trip down to Kamakura based on Daisuke's strong recommendation... He couldn't have been more right on.  Starting in the shrill of Tokyo, the hour train ride buzzed past an almost a continuous line of houses flanking the tracks and meandered into a countryside reminsicent of Scandianavia... well, i've never been to scandanavia... but you can imagine.  The bucolic village of Kita-Kamakura ambraces a series of Zen temples tucked like gems in the autumn-like hillside.  The stark solitude silenced the normal hum of thoughts and lulled me into a tranquil voyage through the monasteries.  Only the intermittent ring of the railway bells warning of the imminent train clatter would rattle me into deciding on a new direction to wander.  My favorite of the five mountain temples was Kenchoji -- originally founded in over 700 years ago.  I was fortunate to visit on the 17th day of the month which prompts the Buddhist monks to beat the drums in an austere prayer.  I wandered up the mountain behind the temple treating me to a panorama of the seaside to the snowcap of Mount Fuji-san... a total surprise!  I've uploaded my pics here... http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.friedman/TokyoPart2?authkey=VNZs2C3FMN4 (over 100 so might want to save for a rainy day)   I trekked back down the mountain and headed to the seawater at Sagami Bay.  Although just a few miles from the temples, it almost felt like Santa Cruz with a number of surf shops lining the road tracing the coast.  It was a bit shocking for me to see a number of Japanese surfer dudes snagging some knee-high curlers into shore.  Although it was around 50 degrees or so, i was wearing just a t-shirt cause a) it was perfectly sunny and clear b) i was walking on the beach and c) my body temp was up from the hike.  Perhaps the most memorable moment was an old, bundled up Japanese fisherman who biked up to me and gave me a pat on my right shoulder... in very spotty, broken english, the fisherman complimented, "ah... samurai-san."  (I will concede that the average size difference between Japan and america is well-documented in movies like Lost in Translation... i couldn't even find a pair of shoes i liked in US size > 9.5.)  Note to self:  definitely reciprocate and loosely name any male foreigner as John Wayne.  I guess the fisherman was slightly weary from a long day with no bites... as he said, the fish must've been sleepy. :)   Walking around in a foreign country where you only speak 5 words affords you with a lot of opportunities to let your mind wander.  One theory that popped into my head was it might be a good opportunity to visit the Tower Records in Tokyo since they were going out of business.  Before I left the states, i stopped by the palo alto location to take advantage of their steep discounts (60% off).  Unfortunately, it was already picked clean of anything worth owning.  I figured that the Tokyo store might have a much better remaining selection because the Japanese couldn't possibly have as good of taste as us homogeneous Americans.... right?  Too bad I didn't get a chance to test out the hypthesis because the international locations appear to not be included in the liquidation.  Sorry fam... the Hanukah presents were purchsaed at face value this year. (and good luck trying to return the presents with the receipts in Kanji characters and purchased at stores in Tokyo.)   Other random thoughts... remember the old Atari logo.... it's an icon inspired by Mount Fujisan.... although Japanese some Japanese businessmen have never been to a concert or even own an instrument, i'll bet that they can play the drums better than any of you. (check out the video of one of the many talented suits playing the drum video game.)   Also a great way to make friends is to carry a shoe horn around... after returning to the shoe cubby from one of the walks through the zen monastery, an old Japanese dude had an indestructible shoe horn that he excitedly offered to up to me.  How could i refuse?  kinda reminds me of when my grandma would offer some cantaloupe to the set of high school friends congregating in our family room.   ...so i remember always getting a chuckle out of the people stateside that would walk around the Financial district with the hospital masks.... i mean... come on... clearly none of us want to get sick... but to be that paranoid?   Well, it might not be paranoia... the Japanese often wear masks to stop the spread of flu/viruses at the source... meaning they are protecting YOU cause they sense they're sick!  In fact, there are many aspects to the culture that touch on deep respect for their community and surroundings.  For example, most Japanese won't do a full cross of their legs because they believe it is rude to show the bottom of your sole to the person shouldering you in the subway.  Perhaps the most vivid example of the deep respect that permeates throughout is that for a monstruous city teeming with busy commuters, there is almost zero garbage on the streets.  Although many cruise the street sucking down some food/drinks (even beer) on the go, they properly dispose of the trash... even though there are almost ZERO garbage cans.  I can only imagine what the streets of new york would look like if there was just one trash can/recycling bin every 4 blocks.    The earliest morning (not counting the latest night) was a 5am jaunt to the Tsujiki Fish Market.  They auction off roughly 2,000 tons of seafood per day (except Sunday), with the best sushi restaurants in the world transporting their purchases daily.  I can only imagine the supply chain to maintain the freshness and high quality on the long flights (that thought was for the b-school freaks).... i guess the supply chain analysis is a lot less interesting to transport to the restaurants (almost like a shanty village) located about one football field away from the auction.  We went to Daiwa Sushi... and they had a half an hour line on a random wednesday at oh six hundred... as in 6 in the morning.  So my general thinking on ordering is to always get the signature dish -- it has to be the best cause that's what the critics will ultimately judge the place on... well, the signature dish was a prix fixe with tuna, eel, urchin, a bunch of other stuff that was swimming an hour before.  so if you're keeping score at home... the signature dish from the preeminent restaurant located at THE place to purchase fresh fish... well... must be THE BEST!  so next time you suggest we grab sushi and i might propose another restaurant, it's because after you've had the best you can never go back. :)   Wednesday turned into a loooooong day with another day trip to Nikko (2 hours by train but 3.5 hours the way i went).  Again, the zen temples were awesome (like kamakura), they were actually even more ornate.  The toshogu temple was the centerpiece of the venture... crazy sculptings, a roaring dragon (really cool acoustics in one of the rooms), and the lavish main hall featuring the most intricate carvings with a gold leaf finish.  Not too many photos here since they're prohibited, but I purchased a souvenir book and i'm thinking of taking digital photos of their pictures and uploading those to my album.  As a "by the way"... you know the phrase "see no evil, hear no evil, and speak no evil..." probably stems from a carving of the three wise monkeys at that temple.  The translation of "no evil" is the word "zaru" which is eerily similar to "saru" which means monkey in Japanese.  So there must've been Japanese Shakespeare in the 1600's that popularized the saying.   The Japan adventure roared to a close with a "Soba" party hosted by Daisuke's family at a downtown club.  Daisuke's parents' friends are effectively master chefs and made FROM SCRATCH the soba noodles to feed over 40 of us... YUM!  And the sushi was kickin good (that's right, 3 times in one week).  There are so many other stories from Japan but i gotta keep a couple in the bag for some late night storytelling... and i'm just happy that you read this far in my email (cause i know gunderson didn't make it this far).   I want to personally thank my classmate and close friend Daisuke.  He got me psyched up to venture to another country then spent countless hours over breakfast and lunch outlining an itinerary... he even coaxed his sis to spend a day as a personal Tokyo tour guide.