I woke up feeling clammy all over. I hadn't showered or changed my clothes in quite a while. When its freezing cold the last thing you think about is taking layers off in the evening. I don't think I smell, but who can be sure. My nose is permanently blocked anyway from the cold.

Powerful head winds all day whilst going up a hill that lasted forever.

I kept passing couples floating along on horse and carts. What a great way to travel. If I ever do another journey then perhaps I will do it that way. Pile all you stuff on the back, potter along, have a kip if you need to whilst your horses eat grass.

They always looked so peaceful as they made there way along the road. Simple contentment and warmth radiating from their wagon.

Ditch keeps licking me. if I let her make a habit of it, those wet patches will turn into ice before the love in them has even had time to take effect.

Each night the sun is down by 6pm and the moon is high by 6.30pm. Its clear most evenings and there is always enough light to see. This is a natural thing that city dwellers have forgotten or never known. Out in the open, nature is not pushed away by neon signs and street lamps. Your body gradually gets into the rythym and feels complete.... well except for a bit of warmth perhaps.

I rolled into a small town called Chicheng and decided I spend the evening there. Since ditch has tasted the freedom of the great outdoors, she is often restless in a small guest house. But she is a good dog and knows we will be there again soon. She waits like a coiled spring desperate to ping off into infinity.